AN INTERVIEW WITH CHEF ANDRES
In 1974 Chef Andres moved from Guatemala to bring his acquired culinary expertise to the diners of New York City.
He began his career at Mr. G’s Steakhouse in downtown New York. There he honed his skills as a pantry man, worked his way to line-cook and mastered the art of cooking steaks to perfection. It’s here that he credits then head Chef John Talarico with passing down knowledge to him. An Italian chef, he trained Andres on the art of butchering, preparing soups and creating authentic Italian dishes and sauces.
When Chef Talarico departed, Andres became the head chef.
Andres remained in NYC for 17 years thriving in steak houses and Italian eateries.
When he married and had children, his priorities shifted.
He sought to move north to a more quaint setting and in Seymour, CT, Andres found his next chapter.
Chef Andres, you hail from Guatemala and you say it’s where you found your passion for cooking. What kind of native ingredients did you use there?
We created dishes with banana leaves, tomatoes, chilies (not the hot kind), corn flour, and rice flour to name a few.
What prompted you come to the United States?
I had been here on a student exchange program and knew in the back of my mind I always wanted to come back to NYC to master my culinary craft, knowing the variety of restaurants and cuisines the city offered. I didn’t just want to learn one type of cuisine.
You moved to Seymour, CT to raise your family of four children. When did you join John J Sullivan’s?
I worked here for the original owners for 9 years, and then when John and Charlie bought the restaurant 6 years ago, they asked me to stay on with them.
Do you ever use some of your Guatemalan cooking influences here at John J Sullivan’s?
Yes, I have used ripe and green plantains in some recipes, created a traditional Guatemalan dish made with pork shoulder that is similar to the Italian porketta, and the popular side dish Spanish rice.
What is your favorite entrée to prepare?
I love a meaty fish such as a swordfish or tuna steak. I also enjoy working with scallop and shrimp dishes along with pasta as well.
What seems to be the most popular dish at John J Sullivan’s?
People tend to really enjoy our Gaelic Steak. It’s made with garlic, pepper, Irish whiskey, brown sauce, a bit of cream and mushrooms.
What is your philosophy to running a restaurant kitchen?
You have to be in control of things – knowing what is supposed to happen that day, giving constructive directions to your staff, and remaining calm above all else. I like to make sure my staff is happy. I compliment them when they’ve done well, and I teach them how to fix their mistakes. There is no room for being rude or loud as you might see on those reality TV cooking shows.
Our team also plates every dish to order. If client isn’t content with what’s on the traditional menu, I am more than happy to customize a dish for them.
What advice do you have for aspiring chefs?
Learn everything from top to bottom. Now-a-days chefs can order their meat pre-cut, but I think it’s important for all chefs to know how to properly butcher their own meat. Not only is it a fine skill, but it can save your restaurant owners money on not having to pay for the service of pre-cut meat.
Why do you love being a chef?
I get up every morning and I’m happy to go to work. I know what’s coming and I know how to remain calm when faced with surprises. It’s never boring, but it’s a lot of hours and tough work. You have to love it! As my mentor would say, ‘if you can’t cut the mustard, leave it alone.” Today my kids say, “If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the kitchen.”
So do you cook when you go home at night?
No. My wife refuses to let me in the kitchen. It’s set up exactly how she wants it. She’s a great cook!
What would you love your John J. Sullivan’s customers to know?
I love to see a clean plate come back. It makes me happy!
